Category: Woodworking

Thin-Kerf Blades and Riving Knives

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Trent Davis19 Comments
Table Of Contents
  1. What Is a Thin-Kerf Blade?
  2. Why Would I Want To Use a Thin-Kerf Blade?
  3. Why Would I NOT Want To Use a Thin-Kerf Blade?
  4. But I Really Want To Use A Thin-Kerf Blade!
  5. What Riving Knives are Available?
  6. Should I Buy a 2.0 mm Riving Knife Instead?
  7. The Problem With a 2.0 mm Riving Knife
  8. But Don't I Need a 2.0 mm Riving Knife If I'm Using a Thin-Kerf Blade?
  9. But The Wood Is Binding Up When I Use a 2.3 mm Riving Knife!
  10. Conclusion

There are times when you may want to use a thin-kerf blade, but what about your riving knives and splitters? Won’t they be too wide? Well, not exactly.

We’re going to touch on the basics of thin-kerf blades, but the main point of this article is to address the issue of a riving knife or splitter causing the wood to bind after switching to the thin-kerf blade. Many people think they need a thin-kerf riving knife, but it may not come to that. Read on…

What Is a Thin-Kerf Blade?

Now, we’re not concerned with ultra thin blades, such as specialty fret-slot cutting blades. If you’re using those blades then you’re on your own to find a good splitter/riving knife solution. What we’re concerned with are the more common thin-kerf blades.

For th​e record, standard-kerf blades are 1/8″ thick, so thin kerf blades are only 1/32″ thinner.

If you go to the store and ask for a thin-kerf blade, chances are they will hand you a blade that has a 3/32″ wide kerf. Most, if not all, Freud Diablo blades are thin-kerf.

Why Would I Want To Use a Thin-Kerf Blade?

There are two main reasons to use a thin-kerf blade, plus a few other uncommon but valid reasons.

1. Lower horsepower saw

This includes any saw with less than 3 HP or running on 120 volts. Once you get up to 3 HP then you will most-likely be running the saw on 230 volt power but that voltage may not always be available to you. This is commonly the situation when working on a job site doing house construction or for home hobbyists who don’t necessarily need anything other than standard 120 volt service.

For various reasons, you may find yourself using a lower horsepower saw.

Since a thin-kerf blade removes 1/4 less material than a standard kerf blade, this makes it easier for lower horsepower saws to make these cuts, especially when cutting through thicker materials.

2. Less material waste

Since a thin-kerf blade removes less material, that means less material wasted.

In my mind, this is usually a silly reason to use thin-kerf blades. If you’re cutting something like ebony, where you scrape up any sawdust you make and save it, then sure, this is a valid reason. If you’re just cutting plywood or even most hardwoods then it might be time to weigh the cost savings vs. the hassles of using a thin-kerf blade.

Which brings me to…

Why Would I NOT Want To Use a Thin-Kerf Blade?

Thin-kerf blades have a tradeoff.

If you’ll forgive me a brief tangent, thin-kerf blades have been over-hyped on the internet. It’s gotten to where people who are new to woodworking are under the impression that you should always be using a thin-kerf blade because that is all anyone ever recommends.

1. Less Stable

A wobbly blade can also contribute to chipping your zero-clearance insert and maybe even nicking the edges of miter gauge or crosscut sled fences. If you’re using a SawStop, we all know how that can end.

Thin-kerf blades have less mass which results in more wobbling of the blade. More wobbling of the blade results in a rougher cut. A rougher cut results in more sanding. More sanding means more wood removal. So much for saving material.

There are stabilizer (or stiffener) discs that you can add to your thin-kerf blade to help eliminate this issue. This adds to the cost so you’ll want to keep this in mind if you are using thin-kerf blades as some sort of cost-saving measure. This also limits the depth of your cut.

Forrest 5″ Stiffener Disc

2. Alignment With Riving Knife or Splitter

If you are using a riving knife or splitter (and you should be) then you may find that it is no longer aligned with the blade. This results in the wood binding as it clears the blade, which can be dangerous.

We’ll come back to this…

But I Really Want To Use A Thin-Kerf Blade!

Go ahead and use a thin-kerf blade if you’ve really got your heart set on it. Just keep in mind that, like everything in life, there are trade-offs.

The main point of this article is to address the issue of riving knives or splitters, so lets take a look at this subject.

Disclaimer: I am basing this on SawStop table saws because this is what I have access to and because they are the best-selling table saw in North America so they are most-likely what you have access to as well. If you are wanting to address this with another type of table saw, I recommend you contact the manufacturer to get their advice on the matter.

What Riving Knives are Available?

SawStop sells two different riving knives. One is 2.3 mm thick and one is 2.0 mm thick. Chances are, your saw has a 2.3 mm thick riving knife and splitter on your blade guard.

2.3 mm riving Knife
2.0 mm Riving Knife

Why the change? Well, up until 2010, the riving knives and blade guard splitters were 2.0 mm but due to government regulation it was changed to the slightly wider 2.3 mm. It may not sound like a huge difference, and it really isn’t, but 0.3 mm is enough to cause a significant issue, as we’ll address shortly.

Should I Buy a 2.0 mm Riving Knife Instead?

On one condition: you never plan on using your standard blade guard.

Again, we’re talking about SawStops here, but there are three blade guard options:

TSG-MG – Micro Blade Guard
TSG-DC – Dust Collecting Blade Guard
TSG-FDC – Floating Dust Collecting Blade Guard

It you are using the Floating Dust Collecting Blade Guard then you are fine, but if you are using either the Micro Guard or the Dust Collecting Blade Guard then you will want to steer clear of the 2.0 mm riving knife. Here’s why…

The Problem With a 2.0 mm Riving Knife

If you make the switch to a 2.0 mm riving knife then the clamp that holds it will be too loose since it is set to 2.3 mm. This can be unsafe and should be fixed by tightening the riving knife clamp. This will make it too tight to hold onto the splitter for the Micro Guard or the Dust Collecting Blade Guard.

You basically have to pick one or the other: either you’re using a 2.0 mm riving knife or you’re using a blade guard. Unless you feel like adjusting the clamping pressure of your riving knife clamp every time you switch back and forth, you’re better off just staying with 2.3 mm.

A friend of mine asked if you could just put a piece of tape on the right side of the 2.0 mm riving knife as a shim. Well…yeah. Jeeze! Don’t ruin the point I’m trying to make!

Seriously, though. If you’re comfortable putting tape on the side of the 2.0 mm riving knife, go ahead, but as you’ll read next, you shouldn’t have to do that.

But Don’t I Need a 2.0 mm Riving Knife If I’m Using a Thin-Kerf Blade?

No, you don’t. Do the math.

For the next few pictures, I’ve created a 3D model of the saw with a riving knife that I’ve colored green for clarity.

Let’s look at the standard 2.3 mm riving knife compared to both a 1/8″ standard-kerf blade and a 3/32″ thin-kerf blade.

1/8″ = 3.125 mm

3/32″ = 2.38 mm

This means that even the widest of the two riving knives is still thinner than a thin-kerf blade.

Now, if you are considering switching to a thinner riving knife, I assume it’s because you are experiencing problems. Let’s take a look at the REAL issue here…

But The Wood Is Binding Up When I Use a 2.3 mm Riving Knife!

Of course it is, but it’s not happening for the reason you think.

When the saw leaves the factory, it ships with a standard-kerf blade, (actually, it’s .118″ rather than .125″, but definitely bigger than a thin-kerf blade which is .094″). However, as we already established, the riving knife is for a thin-kerf blade. To make this a non-issue, the riving knife is centered on the blade, as shown below.

Full kerf blade with riving knife
Full kerf blade with riving knife

The thing about left-tilt saws is that the blade mounts onto the arbor shaft from the right. This means that the left side of the blade is constant. It never changes. All of the change happens to the right, which is where we usually have the fence.

See where I’m going with this? If the riving knife is centered on a 1/8″ blade then that means that the blade is 1/64″ wider than the riving knife on both the left and right. If you change to a thin-kerf blade, then you are taking 1/32″ off the right of the blade, but nothing on the left. This means that the riving knife now sticks out 1/64″ to the right, making the space between the riving knife and the fence 1/64″ narrower than the space between the blade and the fence. You’re now trying to slide a board through a space that is too narrow for it. This causes the binding you are experiencing.

Thin-kerf blade with riving knife
Thin-kerf blade with riving knife

To actually fix this issue, you should slide the riving knife 1/64″ to the left. Your saw may be different, but here’s how to adjust this on a SawStop.

On any of the cast-iron SawStop table saws, there is a pair of 8 mm cap screws that adjust the horizontal positioning of the riving knife or splitter. Slimply loosen these slightly and nudge the clamp a little to the left. It’ll take some back and forth but the end result you are shooting for is for the left face of the riving knife to be co-planer with the left face of the blade, and for the right face of the riving knife to be no closer to the fence than the right face of the blade.

PCS

CNS or ICS

Tip: Since you have to come at these bolts at an angle, use a ball-end allen wrench, such as the one provided with your saw that you would normally use to adjust the spacing between the brake and blade.

Conclusion

As you can see, there isn’t any real reason you would need to get a 2.0 mm riving knife, even when using thin-kerf blades. I feel that it’s always best to address the real problem rather than look for an easy workaround.

I hope this has been helpful. If you feel like I should add anything, please feel free to leave a comment below. Also, I encourage you to share this article with anyone who is considering using thin-kerf blades with their table saw.

News – July 30th, 2019 – Teaching, Filming, and Turning

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Trent Davis

Teaching

I recently got to teach a class on Router basics. Other than it having to be rushed due to the time constraints, it went well. I’ll be converting the documentation for this class into a post on this website, much like I did with my Dado Information class.

I was also working on a beginning woodworking class for Skillshare but life got in the way and I wasn’t able to finish it before the deadline. While making the class, I realized that the subject matter was much too broad for the amount of time I had to put it together. I’m still going to put together some Skillshare classes but I’m going to have them be more focused and less broad.

Filming

I’m working on a video that will walk through how I am making a small 8″ snare drum using stave construction. I filmed Day 1, which ended up covering everything up to the glue-up. As the glue was curing, I started editing the video. That’s where I discovered a pretty big problem.

Lets see if I can explain this…

My snare drum is going to consist of 16 staves. A circle, as you are aware, has 360 degrees. which divided by 16 is 22.5. This amount gets divided by two, since the staves will each have two sides, so each edge needs to have an 11.25 degree bevel.

Still with me?

Now, I use a digital angle gauge. I first square it to the table, then attach it magnetically to the blade. When I do that, it changes from 0-degrees to 90-degrees. This means that when I angle the blade, I need to set it to 90-degrees minus 11.25 degrees. This comes to 78.75 degrees. I knew this, but for some stupid reason (probably because I was distracted with trying to get this on video) I accidentally set it to 79.75 degrees. This makes each edge of each stave one-degree off, which multiplied by 32 edges comes to a total of a 32 degree gap for the drum shell.

Of course, being an idiot I just assumed that the glue was making things too tight so I clamped it down and didn’t think much of how off my measurements were. I didn’t notice the actual problem and its cause until I was editing the video. By this point, the glue had pretty much cured so there wasn’t anything I could do about it.

It’s time to start from scratch, being a little more careful this time.

As a present for you, since you’ve been so patient with me sharing this story, I’ve decided to upload the edit of the video I shot. Keep in mind that it’s a very early update. I was leaving room for a voice-over in parts so some of the shots are too long since I was going to edit in the voice-over then cut as the video to work with the audio.

Turning

I’ve been doing a good amount of woodturning lately and I’ve been getting into bowl-making, which although I’ve been turning for years, I never really got into. Below are some examples of my turning experiments.

One downside to bowl-turning is that I really don’t have anything to do with these. I don’t have a desire to place decorative wooden bowls around my house and most of these don’t have a food-safe finish so they’re not really functional. This is why I wasn’t really interested in bowl-turning in the first place. I like that I’m learning some new techniques but I suspect that I won’t be making a whole lot more bowls.

News – March 18th, 2019 – New Studio Desk, New Dust Collector, and New Friends

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Trent DavisOne Comment

New Recording Studio Desk

As you may know, I recently sold my old studio desk. It worked well but was just too big and ended up not fitting my needs as well as I thought it would. It now has a new loving home in another recording studio. My new one is much simpler and will be more portable and easier to move around the studio. I’m also keeping the rack separate so I can wheel it closer to the drums so I can adjust levels from behind the kit.

The rack on the desk (right under the monitors) won’t be added until later. I’m going to see if I like having the open space first and decide if I even want to incorporate that. I like the idea of a cleaner, simpler workspace.

As you can see, the old desk was pretty big, but it had three different equipment racks which kept things pretty much all contained. The entire desk could be wheeled around and the only cables coming out of it (besides for musical equipment) was a single power cable and an ethernet cable.

The new one is very similar in design. At this point I’ve got it ready to stain and finish before assembly.

This one is going to also have tougher casters since the old ones couldn’t hand;e the weight and got flat spots on them as a result.

New Dust Collector

I sold my old dust collector and got the smaller wall-mount version seen in the above picture. My goal for the year is to make room in my shop. The first step was to build the cymbal cart. Next was getting a different dust collector.

My old dust collector (seen here) had a chip separator as well. I loved having the chip separator but it took up so much room. I ended up selling to someone which brings me to my next point…

New Friends

The person I sold my old dust collector to is Cindy over at https://stur-dycustomcraft.com/ . She’s got a great little shop that is growing quickly and needs some good dust collection before things start getting too messy.

I’ve also made some friends online through the SawStop Users’ Group, over on FaceBook.

I even met a bandmate because his son had a finger save on a SawStop. I met him at Rockler and we eventually got talking about music. It turns out he lives really close to me and plays keyboard and guitar.

My favorite part of my job is meeting new people, many of which have become friends. I find that woodworkers love to share with each other. I’ve learned from so many great people who have been generous with their time and knowledge. It makes me happy to be able to pay that back by doing the same for others. We’re all learning, and we never stop learning.

If you have any questions or just want to talk shop, feel free to contact me through any of the social media links located somewhere on this page (I tend to move them around).

News – March 6th, 2019 – Cymbal Cart, Lathe Bed Extension, and YouTube Videos

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Trent Davis

I finished the cymbal cart

The cymbal cart is finally complete. It holds all of my cracked cymbals and has freed up a lot of floor space in my shop. This was a fun project and was great welding practice. I realized that I still have a long way to go until I can consider myself a good welder. This means that I have a lot of good things to learn. It’s pretty exciting, actually.

Lathe Bed Extension

I just installed the bed extension for my Nova Comet II lathe. I can now turn something up to 41-1/4″ in length. I intend to make a number of rainsticks and tube toms with this configuration. The cool – and slightly ridiculous – thing is that I can add another bed extension if I want to. In fact, I can keep adding them as far as I want. I guess that would come in handy if I wanted to turn a telephone pole or an alphorn. You laugh but I just might make an alphorn.

New clips on YouTube

I got a good opportunity to record the other day but I didn’t have anything in particular that I needed to get recorded. Instead, I just played. I put down about 8 minutes straight of brushwork to use for the backing track for YouTube videos then I played a series of short beats for stinger music.

The video above is one stinger beat that I particularly liked because I got to play around with my chime cymbals a bit. If you’re interested in what a 12″ Sabian Glennie’s Garbage sounds like, that’s the last cymbal that I hit.

The next video is part of an eight-minute improv brush performance that I’m going to add bass guitar, keyboards, guitar, and percussion to. The end result will be an eight-minute background track for some of my YouTube videos that I’m working on.

Choosing a SawStop – Contractor VS. Professional

Trent Davis6 Comments

Share this article…

Choosing a table saw for a home shop can be frustrating.  Especially for the more advanced home shop. While I can’t tell you which saw will be best for you, I can help you decide for yourself.

I want to discuss the differences between the SawStop Contractor Saw (CNS175) and the SawStop Professional Saw (PCS175 and PCS31230).  I’m going to take the approach of looking at what may be important to you and address them in turn. If I have failed to cover something that you consider important please let me know in the comments below and I will update this article.

Keep in mind that this particular article is only discussing the differences between the CNS and the PCS saws. I will write separate articles discussing the JobSite Saw (JSS) and the Industrial Saw (ICS).

Table Of Contents
  1. Share this article…
  2. My Recommendations
  3. Portability
  4. Extension Wings
  5. Fence Options
  6. Miter Gauge
  7. Shop Space
  8. Power (Horsepower)
  9. Power (Electrical Requirements)
  10. Dust Collection
  11. Compatibility
  12. Conclusion
  13. Share this article…

My Recommendations

Don’t have time to read and just want to know my personal recommendations? Well, here you go…

Casual Hobbyist

Weekend Warrior

Serious Home Woodworker

With that said, let’s get started with the details.

Portability

All SawStop saws can be made portable to a certain degree.  The ultimate in portability is the JobSite Saw, but in the early days before SawStop made the JobSite Saw, the Contractor Saw was the go-to option for portability.

Mobile BaseCNSPCS
MB-CNS-000
Contractor Saw Mobile Base		X
MC-CNS
Contractor Saw Mobile Cart		X
MB-PCS-000
Professional Saw Integrated Mobile Base		X
MB-PCS-IND
Industrial Mobile Base with PCS Conversion Kit		X

Contractor Saw Options

The CNS has two mobility options: the Mobile Base and the Mobile Cart.

CNS Mobile Base

https://amzn.to/2BLXIxu

The CNS Mobile Base uses two fixed and two swivel casters to move the saw around.  There is a weight limit with this mobile base so adding accessories such as a cast-iron router table may not be an option.

Pros:

  • Easy to maneuver compared to some other mobile bases.
  • Four wheels are very stable compared to three-wheel mobile bases by other manufacturers.

Cons:

  • Assembly can be difficult for some.
  • Two fixed casters are typical with most mobile bases but not as easy to maneuver as a mobile base with four swivel casters.
  • Doesn’t lift optional outfeed table.
  • Weight limits can make certain accessories technically incompatible.

MB-CNS-000 – Contractor Saw Mobile Base

CNS Mobile Cart

MC-CNS – Contractor Saw Mobile Cart

https://amzn.to/2BVRP0T

The CNS Mobile Cart uses two 10” solid rubber tires and two fixed feet.  It moves much like a wheelbarrow and works on rougher terrain, such as what you would find at a job site.

Pros:

  • Ultimate in maneuverability.
  • Designed to be fit through a standard doorway when the motor is removed.

Cons:

  • Doesn’t lift optional outfeed table.
  • Only compatible with the 30” or 36” fence system, not the 52”.

Professional Saw Options

The PCS has two mobility options: the Integrated Mobile Base and the Industrial Mobile Base with PCS Conversion Kit.

PCS Integrated Mobile Base

https://amzn.to/2LCyZ36

The Integrated Mobile Base is very similar to the CNS mobile base in that it uses two fixed and two swivel casters.  It shares the same pros and cons as the CNS Mobile Base as well.

Pros:

  • Easy to maneuver compared to some other mobile bases.
  • Four wheels are very stable compared to three-wheel mobile bases by other manufacturers.

Cons:

  • Assembly can be difficult for some.
  • Two fixed casters are typical with most mobile bases but not as easy to maneuver as a mobile base with four swivel casters.
  • Doesn’t lift optional outfeed table.
  • Weight limits can make certain accessories technically incompatible.

MB-PCS-000 – Professional Integrated Mobile Base

Industrial Mobile Base with PCS Conversion Kit

MB-PCS-IND – Industrial Mobile Base with PCS Conversion Kit

https://amzn.to/2BHhzO4

Now we’re getting serious! The Industrial Mobile Base uses four swivel casters which allow you to spin your saw in place. It was designed for the Industrial Saw which weighs almost twice as much as the Professional Saw so it can handle the weight of pretty much any accessory you can throw at it. It requires you to purchase and install the PCS Conversion Kit which modifies the Industrial Mobile Base to work with the slightly smaller PCS. Note: The link above contains both the mobile base and the conversion kit.

Pros:

  • Extremely easy to finely position your saw anywhere in your shop.
  • Strong enough to lift the PCS and any accessory attached to it.

Cons:

  • PCS Conversion Kit requires removal of screws with blue Loc-Tite on them, which can be difficult.
  • Will cause you to despise all other mobile bases you ever use.
  • Doesn’t lift optional outfeed table.

Extension Wings

Both the CNS and the PCS have cast-iron main tabletops. The CNS comes stock with a stamped steel 12″ extension wing on each side of the main table. This is because the CNS is designed to be portable and the stamped steel wings weigh quite a bit less than the cast iron wings that come standard with the PCS.

You have the option of adding the cast-iron extension wings to the CNS which increases the weight of the saw, resulting in less vibration.

Fence Options

Both the CNS and the PCS are available in a 30”, 36”, and 52” fence configurations.

Fence SystemRip
Capacity		CNSPCS
CNS-SFA
Contractor Saw Standard Fence Assembly		30″X
PCS-PFA
Professional Saw Premium Fence Assembly		30″X
TGP2-FRT36A2
36″ T-Glide Professional Fence System		36″XX
TGP2-FRT52A2
52″ T-Glide Professional Fence System		52″XX

CNS Standard Fence Assembly (SFA)

The 30” Standard Fence Assembly for the CNS is a lightweight aluminum fence system that secures at both the front and the back of the saw. Because of this, some accessories are not compatible with the 30” fence system.

Pros:

  • Lightweight, which may be important if using a CNS on a jobsite
  • Small footprint

Cons:

  • Not as sturdy as the T-Glide fence system
  • Limited to 30″ rip capacity
  • Face-plates are not replaceable

CNS175 with 30″ SFA Fence System

PCS Premium Fence Assembly (PFA)

The 30” Premium Fence Assembly for the PCS is similar to a Biesemeyer style fence that you find on larger cabinet saws. It secures to the front rail only. The faceplates for the PFA are non-replaceable.

Pros:

  • Very sturdy
  • Small footprint

Cons:

  • Not as sturdy as the T-Glide fence system
  • Limited to 30″ rip capacity
  • Face-plates are not replaceable

T-Glide Professional 36″ or 52″ (TGP2)

Both the 36” and 52” fence systems use a larger, more heavy-duty Biesemeyer style fence. It has replaceable faceplates.

Although the name has “Professional” in it, this system is also completely compatible with the CNS.

Pros:

  • Extremely sturdy
  • Allows up to 52″ of rip capacity
  • Face-plates are replaceable

Cons:

  • Larger footprint

Miter Gauge

The miter gauge for the Contractor Saw is similar to the one provided with the Professional Saw but there is one minor difference. The miter gauge for the Professional Saw has spring bearings on the side of the miter bar that work to ensure the miter gauge is always held firmly in the slot without any play to it.

The miter gauge for the PCS (above) and the CNS (below). Note the addition of spring bearings on the side of the miter bar for the PCS miter gauge.

Shop Space

The amount of space that each saw takes up can be misleading. While both the CNS and the PCS saws share the same table dimensions, the CNS has a motor that hangs off the back of the saw which adds to the amount of space that it takes up.

Saw ModelWidthDepthHeight
CNS w/ 30″ Fence58 ½“40″34 ¾”
CNS w/ 36″ Fence69 ⅛”45″34 ¾”
CNS w/ 52″ Fence85 ¼ “45″34 ¾”
PCS w/ 30″ Fence61 ¾”31 ⅛”34″
PCS w/ 36″ Fence69 ⅛”33″34″
PCS w/ 52″ Fence85 ¼”33″34″

A few things to keep in mind: the height of the Contractor Saw is adjustable since it has screw-in feet at the bottom of each leg; the industrial mobile base adds an additional ¼ ” to the height of the saw.

Power (Horsepower)

Horsepower (HP)CNSPCS
1.75XX
3.0X

The Contractor Saw is only available with a 1.75 HP motor which can be wired for either 110 Volts A/C (VAC) or 220 VAC.  Whether it is wired for 110 or 220 doesn’t affect the horsepower at all. More in this in a little bit…

The Professional Saw is available in either 1.75 HP at 110 or 220 VAC, or 3 HP at 220 VAC only.  

If you’re going with the Contractor saw then you are pretty much limiting yourself to 1.75 HP, which may not necessarily be a bad thing.  

The Professional saw, however, adds the possibility of moving up to 3 HP.  This can be done when you initially acquire your saw by purchasing the PCS31230 or it can be done at a later date by purchasing a PCS175 then buying a new motor and contactor box when you decide to do the upgrade.  This option is more expensive than just buying the PCS31230.

Is 3 HP necessary?  Not necessarily. I’ve used 1.75 HP saws for years without any problems, you just need to know how to work within those limitations.  If you’re making cabinets and spend the bulk of your time cutting sheet goods, a 1.75 HP machine should be fine. If you need to cut the occasional hardwood then it helps to switch to a thin blade with fewer teeth, or simply lower your feed rate but that can cause burning on your material.  

One trick that I have done in the past is to cut my material just a hair wider than I need it at a slower feed rate.  This will cause some burning but won’t over-tax the motor. Then, I move my fence over and cut the material to the final width at a normal feed rate so I’m not removing much material but going fast enough to help minimize any burning.

That being said, it is really hard to bog down a 3 HP motor.

Power (Electrical Requirements)

Saw Model110 Volts220 Volts
CNS175 X X
PCS175 X X
PCS31230 X

Both the CNS and the PCS175 come wired to 110 VAC but can be upgraded by purchasing an optional 220 VAC contactor box and changing the wiring in the motor junction box.

The contactor boxes for changing to 220 VAC are available here:

The 3 HP PCS31230 is only available in 220 VAC.

One question I get asked a lot is what are the advantages of going from 110 VAC to 220 VAC. The bottom-line is no, you won’t see an increase in power. There are some other advantages, however.

A 1.75 HP motor running on 110 VAC will have an amperage load draw of 13 Amps. This means that under load, the saw will require an average of 13 amps to keep the motor spinning at speed. If you bog down the motor by cutting dense wood, the motor draws more amps to keep spinning at speed. If you are pulling 13 Amps on a 15 Amp circuit then you don’t have much headroom before the breaker is tripped.

A 1.75 HP motor running on 220 VAC will have an amperage load draw of 10 Amps. This causes the motor to run cooler, which is better for the motor in the long-run, but also gives you more headroom before the breaker is tripped. This comes in handy when resawing dense hardwood or anything else that really pushes the motor.

Both 220 contactor boxes come equipped with a Nema 6-15 plug. This means that it is a style 6 plug rated for 15 amps. You should be able to run the saw on a 15 Amp circuit without any problems. Most people run these saws on a 20 Amp breaker.

Dust Collection

A standard airflow requirement for most table saws is 350 CFM in order to provide decent dust collection.

By design, any cabinet saw should have better dust-collection than a contractor saw. Cabinet saws are enclosed so the sawdust that doesn’t make it down the dust chute will still be contained within the body of the saw. Contractor saws, on the other hand, are much more open so loose sawdust will fall to the floor under and around the saw.

CNS-DCP – Dust Collection Panel

The Contractor Saw has an optional accessory called the Dust Collection Panel (CNS-DCP) which allows you to hook up either a 4” or a 2 ½” hose to the back of the saw, while making the connection point much more accessible. The 2 ½” port enables the use of a Shop-Vac rather than a dust collector. While Shop-Vacs do not generally provide the required CFM, they’re better than nothing.

The Contractor Saw and the PCS175 both come with the Micro Blade Guard (TSG-MG).

The advantage of the Micro Blade Guard is that the clear plastic shell can be easily removed which allows you to use a splitter with anti-kickback pawls.

TSG-MG – Micro Blade Guard

TSG-DC – Dust Collecting Blade Guard

Any saw that is 3 HP or more will come with the Dust-Collecting Blade Guard (TSG-DC). Either of the 1.75 HP saws will work with the TSG-DC but it will need to be purchased separately. This brings us to our next subject…

Compatibility

The Contractor Saw and the Professional Saw share a lot of the same characteristics. As such, they share a lot of the same accessories.

While the 30” fence options are different for each saw, the 36” and 52” T-Glide fence system is completely identical for both saws.

The table depth is 27” on both saws, so the cast-iron wings for one saw will technically fit on the other one although they are slightly different in a superficial way.

This also means that the inline router table will technically work on both saws although it isn’t officially supported on the Contractor Saw. More on this in a bit. Let’s address all of the accessories in turn.

First, here’s a checklist of each accessory and it’s compatibility with each saw.

AccessoryCNSPCS
MC-CNS
Contractor Saw Mobile Cart		X
MB-CNS-000
Contractor Saw Mobile Base		X
MB-PCS-000
Professional Integrated Mobile Base		X
MB-PCS-IND
Industrial Mobile Base with PCS Conversion Kit		X
OFT30-CNS-000
30″ Outfeed Table		X
TSA-FOT
Folding Outfeed Table		X
CNS-DCP
Dust Collection Panel		X
TSA-ODC
Overarm Dust Collection		XX
TSG-FDC
Floating Dust Guard		XX
RT-TGP
Inline Router Table		XX
TSA-SA48
Sliding Crosscut Table		XX
TSA-SA70
Large Sliding Table		XX

Contractor Saw Mobile Base

MB-CNS-000 – Contractor Saw Mobile Base

https://amzn.to/2BLXIxu

The Contractor Saw Mobile Base allows you to move the Contractor saw around your shop easily but it’s not designed to lift extremely heavy loads. This limits the compatibility with some accessories such as the router table and the sliding crosscut tables.

This mobile base features two fixed and two swivel casters, similar to most mobile bases on the market.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX
PCSX

Contractor Saw Mobile Cart

MC-CNS – Contractor Saw Mobile Cart

https://amzn.to/2BVRP0T

The Contractor Saw Mobile Cart makes the Contractor saw extremely portable. If you team this up with the 30″ SFA fence system and the stock stamped steel wings then the saw is relatively lightweight and easy to maneuver.

It should be noted that the mobile cart is technically not compatible with the 52″ fence system, simply because it is so long that it will stick out over the cart handle.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX
PCSX

Professional Integrated Mobile Base

MB-PCS-000 – Professional Integrated Mobile Base

https://amzn.to/2LCyZ36

The Professional Saw Integrated Mobile Base is much like the Contractor Saw Mobile base in that it has two fixed casters and two swivel casters It also has a weight limit that makes some accessories technically incompatible with it since it may not support the weight.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX
PCSX

Industrial Mobile Base

MB-PCS-IND – Industrial Mobile Base with PCS Conversion Kit

https://amzn.to/2BHhzO4

The Industrial Mobile Base is the ultimate in tool portability. It features a hydraulic jack and four swivel casters which allows you to literally spin the saw in place if you need to. Although it technically has a weight limit, I have yet to reach that.*

*I have an ICS (which weighs almost twice as much as the PCS) with an extra cast-iron wing, the TSG-FDC Floating Dust Guard, and the Inline Router Table attached to it and the mobile base lifts the entire thing up without even the slightest hesitation.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX
PCSX

30” Outfeed Table

https://amzn.to/2CDaVKx

The 30″ Outfeed Table is a quick, easy way of adding outfeed support to your saw. This was designed for the Contractor Saw but is perfectly compatible with the PCS as well.

It should be noted that the 30″ Outfeed Table is not compatible with a mobile base because there isn’t anything to support the legs for the outfeed table. That being said, I am proud to include myself in the large group of people that have jury-rigged and modified it so that it works fine with a mobile base. You just need to get creative.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX (with T-Glide Fence System)While using a mobile base
PCSX (with T-Glide Fence System)While using a mobile base

Folding Outfeed Table

https://amzn.to/2Rt12aN

The Folding Outfeed Table provides a large outfeed surface while being portable and compatible with both mobile bases. It also, as the name implies, folds down out of your way when not needed.

The Folding Outfeed Table is not compatible with the CNS for two reasons. 1. The motor will get in the way. 2. The motor will hit the Folding Outfeed Table when the blade is angled past 40-degrees.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSXX
PCSX

Dust Collection Panel

CNS-DCP – Dust Collection Panel

https://amzn.to/2SlAeGt

Normally you would hook up a dust-collector hose to the underside of the contractor saw. This is fine if you plan on leaving it permanently hook up to the saw but if you are needing to remove it and reattach it to another saw or if you want the option of using a ShopVac with a 2 1/2″ hose then the Dust Collection Panel is a worthwhile upgrade.

This item places both a 4″ and a 2 1/2″ dust port at the rear of the saw rather than underneath.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX
PCSX

Overarm Dust Collection System (TSA-ODC)

https://amzn.to/2GUk6dA

The TSA-ODC allows you to hook up the dust collecting blade guard (TSG-DC) to your saws existing 4″ dust port. The CNS175 and PCS175 come with the Micro Guard (TSG-MG) which does not have a dust port on it. If you are wanting to install the TSG-DC on either of those saws then you will need to purchase the TSG-DC. Since the PCS31230 comes with the TSG-DC then there isn’t anything else that needs to be added.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSX*
PCSX*
PCS31230 X

*With purchase of TSG-DC. Only compatible with the T-Glide fence system.

Floating Dust Guard

https://amzn.to/2VeS2Vs

The Floating Dust Guard (TSG-FDC) provides above-the-table dust collection while allowing you to use simply the riving knife or even no blade guard, such as when you are cutting dadoes.

The 4″ port provides slightly improved dust collection over the TSA-ODC while increasing blade visibility. It also allows you to position the guard much closer to the blade so you can make thinner rip cuts while still using the blade guard.

The TSG-FDC requires either the 36″ or 52″ T-Glide Fence System since it attaches to the far right end of the wooden extension table.

Also, for the exact same reason, if attaching the TSG-FDC to a saw with a cast-iron router table attached, the router table will need to be attached to the left rather than the right.

The TSG-FDC is technically not compatible with either the Contractor Saw Mobile Base or the Professional Saw Integrated Mobile Base due to weight limitations. It works fine with the Industrial Mobile Base.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSWhile using a mobile base
PCSXWhile using integrated mobile base

Inline Router Table

https://amzn.to/2QVZYfN

This is an extremely popular addition to your SawStop. The Inline Router Table consists of a cast-iron router table that attaches to either the left cast-iron wing or in place of the wooden extension table at the far right.

I will be writing a detailed article about the different router table configurations and some of the considerations for each.

This addition is not compatible with either the Contractor Saw Mobile Base or the Professional Saw Integrated Mobile Base due to weight limitations. It works fine with the Industrial Mobile Base. It also is not compatible with the stamped steel wings that come stock on the CNS.

If you have a CNS with cast-iron wings and don’t use a mobile base then there is no reason you can’t attach the inline router table to your saw.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSWhile using a mobile base
PCSXWhile using integrated mobile base

Sliding Crosscut Table (TSA-SA48)

https://amzn.to/2LD136j

The Sliding Crosscut Table adds the ability to crosscut sheet-goods up to 48″ in width. It mounts either to the left wing or in place of it, which requires cutting down the front and rear rails and the front tube.

I don’t consider this a replacement for a miter gauge or a sled, but, rather, yet another tool in your arsenal.

This addition is not compatible with either the Contractor Saw Mobile Base or the Professional Saw Integrated Mobile Base due to weight limitations. It works fine with the Industrial Mobile Base.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSXWhile using a mobile base
PCSXWhile using integrated mobile base

Large Sliding Table (TSA-SA70)

https://amzn.to/2AgzD1K

If you need to crosscut even larger sheet goods, the Large Sliding Table (TSA-SA70) has several configuration options which allow you to crosscut up to 70″ in width.

This addition is not compatible with any mobile base.

Saw ModelCompatibleTechnically IncompatibleIncompatible
CNSXWhile using a mobile base
PCSXWhile using a mobile base

Conclusion

Whether you choose a Contractor Saw or a Professional Saw, I’m confident you will happy with your purchase. Hopefully what I have assembled for you here has helped you make a decision on which saw is right for you.

I accept that it’s impossible to cover all considerations in this article. Still, that’s my goal. As such, if you have any other questions that I did not address, please leave them in the comments below and I will update this article.

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News – September 4th, 2018 – Live Performance and Woodturning

, ,
Trent Davis


Live Performance with Cody Weathers

I got to perform with Cody Weathers and The Men Your Mama Warned You About this past weekend.  This is only the second time I’ve sat in with them, the last time being almost a year ago.

I felt that the show went well.  I didn’t have time to do a rehearsal and I wasn’t that familiar with the songs but we got through them without any major problems.  Cody is the singer/songwriter and usually plays drums.  The guitarist was unable to perform so Cody asked me to fill in on drums so he could switch to guitar.

The music is sort of a Dave Matthews meets Ella Fitzgerald in that it is slightly funky rock with scat vocals mixed in.  It’s a lot of fun to play.  

I’ve included recordings for seven of the eight songs we played below.  Keep in mind that I was very unfamiliar with the songs so be gentle in your criticisms.

At First Sight
Mad About You
Deep
Catnip
Puppy
Thin
Dead Man’s Blues

For those that are interested, here is a list of the gear I used during this show:

Drums (Premier XPK)

  • 14″ X 20″ Kick
  • 5-1/2″ X 14 Wood Snare
  • 14″ X 14″ Floor Tom
  • 4 X 6″ Tama Mini-Timbale

Cymbals

  • 13″ Sabian AAX Studio Hats
  • 16″ Sabian AAX Studio Crash
  • 12″ Sabian Glennie’s Garbage
  • 10″ Custom Wuhan China Crash
  • 12″ Custom Wuhan China Crash
  • 21″ Sabian AA Raw Bell Dry Ride
  • 22″ Sabian Omni
  • 13 different custom chime cymbals

The two custom Wuhan china crashes and the 13 custom chime cymbals are all ones that I made myself by modifying cracked cymbals.  You can see my process for modifying them in the article on Cutting Down a Pair of Wuhans.  This isn’t the exact cymbals that I used for this show but it shows my process for making custom cymbals.  You can hear them in the recordings since I play them quite a bit.  The Wuhans have a very trashy hiss-like sound and the chimes are … well … chimey.

Finally Turned a Few Bowls

I’ve had a lathe for years but never had an interest in turning vessels (cups, bowls, vases, etc…).  I finally decided to give it a try this past weekend and I have to say that I’m hooked.  I don’t really have the right tools to pull this off easily but I’m getting the hang of it anyhow.

In the process I got to be familiar with Howard’s Beeswax & Orange Oil finish.  I was introduced to this through the videos of Carl Jacobson.  If you haven’t checked out his videos then I very highly recommend you do.  He is one of the nicest, coolest guys you’ll ever meet and his woodturning is amazing.  

I had previously used Hut Crystal Coat with generally positive results.  I think I’m more satisfied with the finish of the Howard’s since it has a more silky feel to it.

From this…
…to this.

It’s kind of difficult to tell but the piece pictured here is pretty small.  I went digging through my box of turning stock and found a piece of (what I believe is) bubinga.  It was pretty small, too small to use the Nova chuck to hold it.  I got to use my cole jaws which could just barely hold it securely.  I like the way it turned out.

Helpful SawStop Links

Trent Davis12 Comments

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Introduction

This is a list of helpful documentation and links to the cheapest places online for various SawStop consumables.

I will be regularly updating and adding to this list with the cheapest prices available online.  I will always take the shipping cost into consideration.

If you have a suggestion for a link to add to this or if you find a cheaper place to buy something online, please leave it in the comments below.


Communities

SawStop Users’ Group

I started the SawStop Users’ Group so SawStop owners or prospective owners would have a place to go with their questions without having to resort to other communities like SawMillCreek and LumberJocks, where half the answers to their questions would be met with comments such as “That’s why I use a Delta/Powermatic.” while the other half may be well-intentioned yet not necessarily pointing them in the right direction.

Documents

The Care and Cleaning of a SawStop

https://www.trentdavis.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/The-Care-and-Cleaning-of-a-SawStop-Full.pdf

This is a handout I made for a class I taught at the Guild of Oregon Woodworkers that covered some basic maintenance and adjustments for your saw.

Articles

Thin-Kerf Blades and Riving Knives

https://www.trentdavis.net/wp/2019/10/23/thin-kerf-blades-and-riving-knives/

If you are using thin-kerf blades and are experiencing the wood binding on you when you use a riving knife, check out this article because a fix may be cheaper than you think.

Choosing a SawStop – Contractor Vs. Professional

https://www.trentdavis.net/wp/2019/01/18/choosing-a-sawstop-contractor-vs-professional/

In this article I discuss the differences between the SawStop Contractor Saw and the Professional Saw.

Protecting A Cast-Iron Tabletop

https://www.trentdavis.net/2017/06/13/tool-maintenance-protecting-cast-iron-tabletop/

If you have rust forming on your cast-iron table top, or don’t, and want to keep it that way, check out this article.  This works on all cast-iron tools, and is especially useful with jointers since it will make the table surface very slick.

Adding an Extra Cast-Iron Wing

https://www.trentdavis.net/2017/01/27/table-saw-enhancement-attaching-extra-cast-iron-extension-wing/

I get asked about this more frequently than you would think.  Some people want to have an all-cast-iron table top.  I didn’t do all cast-iron but I did decide to show what is involved in attaching an extra cast iron wing between the existing wing and the wooden extension table.

SawStop Brake Spacing Explained

https://www.trentdavis.net/2018/07/06/sawstop-brake-spacing-explained/

All the mysteries of SawStop brake spacing have been demystified and explained in this article.

Dado information:

https://www.trentdavis.net/2016/08/31/dado-information/

This covers all the basics on choosing and using a dado stack for use on a SawStop.

Converting Extension Table into a Router Table

https://www.trentdavis.net/2017/01/27/table-saw-enhancement-converting-extension-table-into-router-table/

Here I discuss how I converted my wooden extension table into a router table.  This is helpful if you aren’t ready or interested in installing a cast-iron router table.

Router Table Enclosure: Part 1 – Carcase

https://www.trentdavis.net/2017/04/07/table-saw-modification-router-table-enclosure-part-1/

I started making an enclosure for my router.  Here I discuss the construction of the main carcase.

Router Table Enclosure: Part 2 – Laminate

https://www.trentdavis.net/2017/04/14/table-saw-modification-router-table-enclosure-part-2-laminate/

In Part 2 I discuss how I applied the laminate to the enclosure and drawers.

Router Table Enclosure: Part 3 – Hardware and Electrical

https://www.trentdavis.net/2017/04/28/table-saw-modification-router-table-enclosure-part-3-hardware-and-electrical/

In Part 3 I apply the hardware and hook up the electrical then attach the enclosure to the router table.

Parts

Brake Cartridges

For ICS, PCS, CNS, and JSS model saws

The following two brake cartridges are for any saw that takes the blue brake cartridges.  

Standard 10” brake:

http://amzn.to/2D7pJDe

Dado brake:

http://amzn.to/2j3kRpU

For CB model saws

The following two brake cartridges are only for any saw that takes the clear brake cartridges.  If your saw was made after 2008 then it doesn’t take these brakes.

Standard 10” brake:

http://sawstop.3dcartstores.com/Table-Saw-Brake-Cartridge-for-10-Blades-Clear–TSBC-10L_p_18.html

Dado brake:

http://sawstop.3dcartstores.com/Table-Saw-Dado-Cartridge-for-8-in-Dado-sets-Clear-TSDC-8L_p_20.html

Zero-Clearance Inserts

For ICS, PCS, CNS, and CB model saws

The following two zero-clearance inserts are only for any saw that has a cast-iron tabletop.  This just means that it won’t work on the JobSite saw (JSS).

Standard Insert:

https://amzn.to/2K0xril

Dado Insert:

https://amzn.to/2F3VZTI

For JSS model saws (Legacy or Pro)

The following two zero-clearance inserts are only for the JobSite saw (JSS).  They will not fit in any SawStop with a cast-iron tabletop.

Standard Insert:

https://amzn.to/2DtVBjB

Dado Insert:

https://amzn.to/2WqCOyb

10″ Blades

SawStop Standard Series

These are the standard blades, the 40-tooth is what comes on the JSS, CNS, and PCS.  They’re pretty good quality but definitely not the best.

40-Tooth Combination Blade

https://amzn.to/2LNOG70

60-Tooth Combination Blade

https://amzn.to/2uIOBef

SawStop Titanium Series

The Titanium blades are a big step up in quality.  I compare them favorably with the Forrest Woodworker II, although your mileage may vary.  They have large carbides so the blade can be sharpened multiple times and the cuts I have gotten with them has been glue-ready every time.

Titanium 40-Tooth Blade

http://amzn.to/2nEDfH4

Titanium 80-Tooth Blade

http://amzn.to/2kuf0tQ

Forrest Woodworker II

This is the go-to standard blade for most high-end woodworking.  You really can’t go wrong with these blades and they should last an insanely long time.

30-Tooth Blade

https://amzn.to/2OCL7VC

40-Tooth Blade

https://amzn.to/2OtKkqb

48-Tooth Blade

https://amzn.to/2OzzaQH

Freud

Freud is probably the most common blade manufacturer that I deal with. My opinion of them is that you are generally getting a better blade than you are paying for when you buy a Freud. I do, however, recommend staying away from the Diablo line by Freud. I also recommend not using a Freud blade that has anti-kickback shoulders.

A common question I get is whether or not the red coating on Freud blades will affect the safety mechanism on a SawStop saw. Red coated Freud blades work just fine on a SawStop.

40-Tooth – Premier Fusion – Full Kerf

https://amzn.to/2GcFLg8

60-Tooth – Industrial

https://amzn.to/2tavfgJ

80-Tooth – Industrial

https://amzn.to/2t8ihQF

40-Tooth – Industrial – Thin Kerf

https://amzn.to/2HVEqfb

60-Tooth – Industrial – Thin Kerf

https://amzn.to/2GcGDS3

Amana

I like to think of Amana as the Subaru of blades, in that I don’t use them but I keep hearing of people who swear by them and won’t use anything else.  I’ve held them a few times and I agree that they seem like very nicely made, well-balance blades.

24-Tooth – Standard Blade

https://amzn.to/2OBfz2s

30-Tooth – Glue-Line Rip Blade

https://amzn.to/2DWrNyv

60-Tooth – Crosscut Blade

https://amzn.to/2O6kXLx

40-Tooth Blade – Electro-Blue Series

https://amzn.to/2OAXVMg

80-Tooth Blade – Electro-Blue Series

https://amzn.to/2yc9qj5

8″ Dado Stacks

The following dado stacks are all compatible with SawStop table saws, in that they are all ~8″ in diameter, have wing or plus-style chippers, and don’t have depth-limiting (anti-kickback) shoulders.  My personal recommendation is the DeWalt DW7670, which is surprising since I’m not a fan of DeWalt’s 10″ blades.

SaqwStop 8″ Premium Dado Set

http://amzn.to/2BdXiCi

A newcomer to the game, Sawstop released their own dado stack that will work well on their saws.

It is an unusual configuration in that it comes with a 1/4″ chipper which allows the dado stack to be wider than the 13/16″ that SawStop recommends.

While one of the more expensive dado stacks on this list, it definitely is a quality set. I got to test them extensively and I was quite impressed. Not enough for me to sell my old DeWalt dado stack and run out and but this, but if I was in the market for a new stack and didn’t mind paying ~$300 for one, I would definitely consider this one.

DeWalt DW7670

http://amzn.to/2BdXiCi

The DeWalt DW7670 is probably the best value in dado stacks.  I very strongly suspect that they’re just re-branded Forrest Dado Kings.  The cut-quality is phenomenal and they’re usually around 1/3 the price of the Forrest Dado King.

Side-note: once I switched to SawStop Titanium ten-inch blades and the DeWalt DW7670 dado stack, I have never needed to adjust the gap between the blade and brake.  I have it set to the maximum clearance and it’s still close enough to work.

Important note: DeWalt has recently changed this dado stack and it now has a diameter of 8 1/8″. It should still work with a CNS, PCS, or ICS, but it’ll be a bit tight. I definitely wouldn’t recommend this to anyone with a JSS or JSS Pro.

Ridge Carbide 8″ Dado Master

https://amzn.to/2zRfYaT

Ridge Carbide is one of the better blade manufacturers.

Their 8″ Dado Master meets the requirements for use on a SawStop without concern. Also, the cut quality tends to be great with all Ridge Carbide blades.

Forrest Dado King

https://amzn.to/2NqJlmo

This is the Rolls Royce of dado stacks.  At around $300 each, they’re a bit spendy for most home users, but if you make money with your woodworking and you do a good amount of dadoes then it’s a worthwhile investment.

Freud SD208S

https://amzn.to/2zRfYaT

Freud  has a reputation for inconsistency in their blade diameters, especially in regards to their dado stacks.

The SD208 has been reworked and changed to the SD208S which is sized perfectly for a SawStop.  Be sure the model number ends in an S, however.

Tenryu GMD-20340

https://amzn.to/2NXJmiV

A lot of people swear by Tenryu blades.  If you haven’t heard of them, I recommend you give them a look.

King Canada KSC-8000

https://federatedtool.com/king-8-dado-blade-set-ksc-8000/

I have never used a King Canada blade but they are on the official list of compatible dado stacks so I figured I would include them here.

Amana 658040

https://amzn.to/2uxzO67

These are high-quality blades with a price to match.

Maintenance

Wheel Bearing Grease

http://amzn.to/2hUH7Op

This is the recommended lubricant for the gears in a SawStop.  Don’t be tempted to use a dry-lube as they are not made for heavy machinery.  White lithium grease is a little better than dry-lube, but not by much.

White Lithium Grease

https://amzn.to/2SLt1Qh

Although not recommended for lubricating the gears of a heavy tool, it will work if you don’t have any wheel bearing grease but it will need to be reapplied every few days.

Dry Teflon Lube

https://amzn.to/2smf0g5

Definitely not recommended for lubricating the gears of your saw. However, it is handy when lubricating the fine threads and chains found in router lifts and other smaller tools.

Accessories

Hold-Downs

Featherboards do a good job holding the material against the fence but a better alternative may be using hold-downs.  These are configured so they not only hold the material against the fence but also flat against the table.

Board Buddies

Board Buddies are my preferred hold-down.  They’ve been around for a long time and they work great when cutting sheet goods.  They are a little bulky and may not be appropriate for every cut but they cost a lot less than some of the alternatives.

They are available in three different styles and the only real difference is which direction the wheels spin.  The yellow version turns in a clockwise direction, and is the most common.  This is what you would want to put on a table saw when the fence is to the right of the blade.  The red version turns counter-clockwise and the green version turns freely in both directions.

Board Buddies:

http://amzn.to/2j32AJc

This is what I use on my saw.  I recommend getting the track listed below as it allows you to move the board buddies front to back if needed.

Board Buddies Track:

http://amzn.to/2BKwENi

As stated above, this makes the Board Buddies more adjustable.

Jessum Clear Cut

http://amzn.to/2BcJSGo

Jessem makes their own hold-downs that are very popular.  They’re also a lot more expensive, costing almost three times what the complete Board Buddies system costs.  They do appear to be quality products, but the law of diminished returns keeps me from upgrading to these.  They look better than the Board Buddies, but not three-times better.

Conclusion

There you have it.  If you think that I missed something or if you found these parts cheaper elsewhere, please leave a comment below.

A Note About Affiliate Links

Some of the product links on this page are affiliate links. Any income earned through these links is donated to my fundraiser, which you can read more about at the following page:

Feel free to share this page with others…

SawStop Brake Spacing Explained

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Trent Davis6 Comments

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The subject of brake spacing on a SawStop table saw seems to be somewhat confusing to people, no matter how long they have been using the saw.  I’m hoping to clear up some of the mystery once and for all.

What exactly is brake spacing?

Brake spacing is literally the space between the brake cartridge and the blade as shown below.

Why is it important?

The saw blade has 5 volts of electrical current flowing through the blade and the brake is sending out a radio signal to monitor the level of that current.  If something conductive, such as a finger, touches the blade it will absorb some of the current and like a sponge in a glass of water, the current level will drop.

The brake needs to be close enough to the blade in at least one location in order for it to successfully monitor the electrical current flowing through the blade.  You’ll notice that the aluminum brake pawl is curved to follow the circumference of the blade.  It’s very rare that this curve will follow the shape of the blade perfectly.

What happens if the brake is too far from the blade?

If the gap between the blade and brake is too great, the brake will not be able to see the electrical current flowing through the blade.  This results in an error message consisting of a solid red light and a slow (about once per second) flashing green light.  You will be unable to start the saw until you clear the error message by bringing the brake closer to the blade.

What happens if the brake is too close to the blade?

This is what you really want to avoid.  If the brake is too close to the blade then you run the risk of a high tooth on the blade making contact with the aluminum brake pawl and activating the brake immediately at paddle pull.

How do I adjust the spacing?

The brake spacing is adjusted with an 8mm allen bolt to the left of the blade.  It should be bright yellow and hard to miss.

You use a yellow feeler gauge that is provided with your saw to check the gap spacing.  If you can’t find yours, look on the side of your saw.  It has magnets on the back so most people just stick it to the side of the saw. 

The gauge is .070″ thick and should be inserted between the blade and brake at the point where they are closest.  This will most likely be at the top of the curved aluminum.  

You should be able to rotate the blade and have the teeth just barely touch the yellow gauge.

If you have misplaced your yellow gauge, you can use a US nickel or even the brass bypass keys that should be on the right side of your switchbox.

Any tips?

The gap doesn’t need to be exact.  There is a window that it needs to be within for the system to work.  You can have the gap one of three ways: perfect; too big; or too small.  If you can’t have it perfect, err on the side of it being too big.  If the gap is too big then the worst that will happen is you’ll get the error message.  If it’s too close, you might inadvertently activate the brake at paddle pull.

After some trial and error I happened to find the perfect combination of blades where if I set the gap to its biggest the blade is still close enough to the brake to work yet never too close.  As a result, I haven’t adjusted or even checked the brake to blade spacing in over two and a half years.  If you’re curious, these are the blades I alternate between:

I can’t clear the error message!

If you are getting the solid red and slow green error message and you can’t clear it no matter how close you bring the brake, there may be something interfering with the signal.

If you have changed the height of the riving knife or blade guard on your saw then the clamp may be too low and interfering with the blade signal.  Try installing the riving knife to see if the error goes away.  Obviously, if you are trying to make dadoes with an 8″ blade then you can’t make the cut with the riving knife installed, but this is just a troubleshooting step.  If the error goes away then we found the problem.  You need to raise your riving knife clamp up a little or put a piece of cardboard in the clamp to hold it shut rather than hang loose.

Did I miss anything?

I hope I covered all of the important info related to brake to blade spacing.  If I missed something or you have any questions, please leave a comment below and I’ll address it either with a response in the comments or by updating this article.

Also, be sure to join us on the SawStop Users’ Group on Facebook.

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News – June 19th, 2018 – American Association of Woodturners Symposium

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Trent Davis

This past weekend I attended the American Association of Woodturners Symposium at the Portland Convention center.

The symposium consisted of many vendor booths and a gallery of inspiring woodworking pieces.  I bought some wood and some mother-of-pearl flakes and chips for doing inlay work.  I’ve included some photos from the gallery below.  I didn’t think far enough ahead so I don’t have all the names of who made what.  Sorry.

While the symposium itself was fun, the highlight for me was meeting with some YouTubers the night before at a restaurant near the convention center.  I got to hang out with Carl Jacobson and Heath Knuckles and laugh over drinks while listening to stories (from another YouTuber and his wife – I won’t list their names here for privacy reasons) of near death experiences while taking nude photos at the beach and his adventures doing nipple castings at an erotic art convention in Rochester.

The following day I met up with Gord Rock from Canada.  If you haven’t checked out his channel, I highly recommend it.  He does some really nice woodturning but he is also an excellent teacher and one of the nicest guys I have ever met (which makes sense since he’s Canadian).

A pleasant surprise was running into Frank Howarth as he was walking around.  It was actually pretty awkward since I think I caught him off-guard and I probably came off as a stalker since I’m a big fan of his.  I am a student of film and I always appreciate when someone really puts some effort into their YouTube videos.  Every single one of his videos is expertly put together and both entertaining and educational.  One of his pieces, the eyeball, is pictured below.

News – June 11th, 2018 – SawStop Floating Dust Collecting Guard

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Trent Davis2 Comments

I Decided to Upgrade my Table Saw Dust Collection

For the past several years I have been using SawStops Dust Collecting Blade Guard along with the Over-Arm Dust Collection Assembly.  This has worked well but there are a few things about it that weren’t working well for me.  Granted, there is no perfect solution for sawdust and different people have different requirements.  This is not a knock against the earlier dust collection system.  I just have different requirements than the old system was able to provide for.

I upgraded my table saw dust collection from this…

…to this.

I installed the SawStop Floating Dust Guard on my saw and I have to say that I’m pretty happy with it so far.  I’m going to do a few modifications to it to make it work better for my particular uses but out of the box it seems to work great.

I’m working on a detailed write-up on the installation of this upgrade, complete with the modifications I did and why they were necessary for me.